Basic Dent Removal and Refinishing

Basic Dent Removal and Refinishing - Part Two
	Page 2

Sanding With DA:

Allow the primer-surfacer to dry thoroughly. Using a 6 In DAQ with 220 grit Stikit™ paper, sand the primer smooth, removing all the 80 grit scratches. The great thing about using a DA with 220 grit paper is that this is the fastest way to prepare the panel for finishing.

Tip:
Some people prefer 180 grit paper to make the job go faster, but 220 grit will give you a smoother surface and less chance of sand scratches showing through the finish.

Reapply Primer-Surfacer:

Normally, you would have sanded completely through the primer into the bare metal areas or into the body filler. At this point reapply more coats of primer-surfacer. Remember to apply primer only to sanded areas of the panel and not to areas of unsanded paint.

Repeat the process of applying primer-surfacer and sanding with the DA until you have:

1. A perfectly smooth surface, and
2. No areas of bare metal or body filler showing through, and
3. No primer-surfacer on unsanded paint.

Fill Pinholes With Spot Putty:

At this point it is normal that you will discover pinholes in the primer. This is caused by bubbles in the body filler when mixing the catalyst (hardener) into the body filler.

The way to correct this is with spot putty. Using a rubber squeegee, apply a thin coat of spot putty in each pinhole.

Wait for the spot putty to dry thoroughly, then use either the DA with 220 grit sandpaper or wet-sand the areas with a sanding block using 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and lots of water.

You can apply the topcoat directly over the spot putty.

Tip:
Using 220 grit with a DA is different from wet-sanding with 220 grit paper. The DA disperses the sanding motion and doesn’t leave scratches. Wet sanding tends to leave scratches even when using 600 grit paper unless you sand very lightly with lots of water.